WEDDING SUNDAY, slightly revised

No, not Mark's... I think he's been put off weddings for life. What a performance! Weddings usually are but this was a performance to rival any wedding I've previously endured.

Today was the Wedding of Judy's brother Dung to his lovely Thuan, to which we were invited even though her father doesn't approve of her relationship with this foreign white giant. However, we were seated with older members of her family and were made to feel very welcome. One of her father's brothers, Uncle Albert (who bears a striking resemblance to General Eisenhower in my opinion), speaks a little English as his company exports abroad and we got on fine with him and his other brothers. His sister, on the other hand, showed no interest in us and she and her haughty daughter avoided making any contact with us at all, but on Judy's mother's side, including her Grandparents who were also seated at our table were more gracious and generally we were shown the friendly interest we usually receive, especially when I began taking photos of everyone.





We weren't present at the actual wedding ceremony, which I think took place in either the Bride's or Groom's family home, with the giving of traditional gifts earlier in the morning. We went over to Judy's family Restaurant at 9.30am to to be taken with other family members by minibus to the Reception in another part of the city. Naturally we had to wait some time for everyone to arrive and didn't get to the Wedding Restaurant till a good two hours later. We'd had no breakfast and had to wait even longer for food!

These special Restaurants cater only for Weddings. This one was quite big, with four separate sections so that four receptions can be going on at the same time and everything is organised with military precision, allowing two hours for each one. As usual, the Bride and Groom stand at the entrance to welcome their guests, which must have numbered several hundred. Naturally they are the stars of the show and have a gruelling two hours performance. When everyone was eventually seated they made their grand entrance, and then came the Cabaret, heralded by an unusually Spanish fanfare of 'Granada' ! A professional compere introduced dancers dressed in traditional red costumes, followed by a young man and a woman, singing no doubt passionate love songs very loudly.



After that it was time for the happy couple to take centre stage and pose for the official photos, pour the champagne, which was red for some reason and accompanied by dry ice to look like smoke, which is a very popular effect in Restaurants, and finally cut the cake. Then while the guests were being served with food they were obliged to visit every table and have their picture and video taken with everyone. I doubt they had time to eat anything.

That's Judy and her mother.



All this time waiting we'd had to make do with peanuts and Beer, not such a good idea on an empty stomach at midday, until the feast was eventually served. I have to say, the food was good if not always to my taste. The first course was Pig's cheek on a large platter, very tasty if you could get any meat off it! As soon as the plate was emptied it was cleared away for the next course, a plate of whole shrimps with lettuce leaves; what we'd call prawns, large and juicy. These were especially good, with a creamy coconut sauce. Then came a dish of beef with carrots and onions served with bread rolls and while I couldn't manage the meat, the veges and gravy were delicious. Most meat here is just chopped into pieces, bones and all to be cooked in a variety of ways and everyone seems to enjoy gnawing on everything but the hardest bones.



Immediately after that the gas stoves appeared. Little did I know, when I bought a small portable gas ring for emergency cooking, how essential they are here in Asia. Every feast requires one for the soup, which is cooked at the table. These soups vary, but are usually mildly spicy and this soup was very good; a variation of fish soup with pineapple, it was simply seafood with clams, octopus and prawns. My favourite! The vegetables added to this one included some large yellow flowers that I've not seen before.



When everything was cleared away we had grapes to finish. Then we were glad to take the remains of our beer and get out into the fresh air as the constant loud music was very wearing.
I started taking pictures of the children and guests and soon they were queing up to be photographed! The men mostly wear white shirts and dark trousers but the ladies dress beautifully. While Judy and other young people favour modern clothes, all the older ladies wear the traditional Ao Dai. This outfit consists of silk trousers and fitted long tunic and comes in many different colours, often with elaborate embroidery and are very beautiful.



I really liked Uncle Albert and Judy's Grandparents. We met Judy's Mother for the first time and seemed to hit it off. Her Father just didn't want to know us, but he's not a happy man and his wife and children have problems with him. Judy was very upset over his behaviour yesterday but soon realised it was due to the stress of the occasion, accepting that it's his problem anyway, not hers.

Soon it was time to return in the minibus with the family, who'd been very quiet on the way there but now for some reason were very merry! (Apart from the Aunt and daughter of course.) Some of the men were keen to show off their limited English and one began to sing a song in English from way back, very nicely. At one point I think we were in danger of being hauled off to a Karaoke Bar, but mercifully the beer kicked in; I fell asleep and maybe they did too.

We were glad to get home and I went to bed for a couple of hours. One reason I was so tired was that last night we were kept awake most of the night by loud traditional music somewhere in the street at the back. We're told that it could be for a death, something like a wake maybe, that goes on for three days and nights. I just hope it doesn't go on tonight as well!

New Plans Afoot

I'm getting so excited! Finally got an email from my son Rich about finalising our plans for Australia and New Zealand. It's so difficult to pin him down as he's here, there and everywhere... literally!

Because he can't stretch his Oz trip to accompany me round NZ, he's actually booked a flight for his sister to join me there. So I managed to change my flight from Sydney to Christchurch for 10 days later so that Julie and I will arrive on the same day. That means I'll have more time to explore with Rich and spend my Birthday with him, which I did in Munich in 1986.

I've made a few tentative suggestions about crossing Australia by the Indian Pacific Railway and then taking the OzExperience Bus tour (recommended by a couple we met in DaLat) from Adelaide to Sidney round the coast. I'm not so keen to be there in the middle of their summer but the Southeastern area has a better climate, so I've been told! It's a part of Australia Rich is very keen to explore and I suspect there are rock climbs beckoning.

Anyway, there are some good travel deals around and I just hope the money will stretch out. But what the hell, I've been broke most of my life, so why change the habit of a lifetime? I trust that my needs will be met and they usually are. Backpacking at my age is such an adventure! I could get addicted.

I've never really been happy with a package holiday, in a hotel that isn't quite what you imagined, trudging down to a beach and wondering how to make the best of each day. I'm far happier living and working somewhere and when I travel I do like to keep moving!

I just noticed a couple of comments from Catherine on 2 previous entries. Apparently her daughter has moved to Australia from the US but unfortunately she's unable to visit her there because of health problems. I'm glad you're enjoying the blog Catherine... always glad to hear from you.

I feel as though my adventures are only just beginning. Whehey!!!

Cooling down, Bikes and things

I awoke this morning after a blissful night's sleep without the fan blowing all night! The temperature has dropped in the last couple of days to a comfortable degree that suits us Nordic types; not too hot and not too cold. The weather is overcast and perfect for cycling so as Mark was out visiting students, I was ready to venture out on my bike, which I should have bought earlier and it would have had more use. I'm so glad to have it so I could visit Michael at Co Mai's, although I didn't see her as she and Thim were away at their temple.

'Little' Mike came over and helped Michael get his flat tyre repaired before we had lunch together. That's him on my bike. L'l Mike had his Graduation ceremony at his University a couple of days ago and borrowed my camera for the occasion so I have some of his pictures. 'Big' Michael's had such bad luck with his old bike that he bought cheap, that he keeps saying he must get a better one, so he went off to see Sophia, who's Dad has contacts everywhere.

I cycled on into town to look for good T-shirts because if I go travelling in the mountains I could need warmer clothes. I managed to buy a Nike man's T-shirt because all the ladies wear is far too small for me. The sales girls all have a good laught when they try to find something to fit me! Mark has the same trouble because he's so big. He did find a new shirt in DaLat, which is labelled XXL while my T-shirt is just L.

I'd not been back long when Michael turned up with Sophia on the New Bike so he's very chuffed and everyone's happy!

More Plans and a Strange Tale

Wednesday 26th November 2008
Less than one month to Xmas!

In two weeks time a new teacher will arrive from the UK to replace me when I leave. He's one of Mark's trainees so there will be no problem with me taking time off to travel for a week or so. In fact, I could probably spend the remainder of my stay here travelling in the cooler highlands and exploring the north of the country. There's a splendid idea. I must get a list of backpacker hostels; its great to share experiences and ideas with other travellers.

While on the subject of backpacking, I must tell you about a tale I heard from a couple at Dreams Hotel last weekend. Not a crazy young couple who might have been under the influence, you understand! Apparently, this respectable middle aged English couple had travelled from Laos to Vietnam by bus, which stopped just before the border crossing for the driver and associates to store some boxes under the floor of the bus! This couple thought it strange but were not unduly worried at that point, until the bus was stopped by border guards.

The passengers had to disembark while the bus was searched and it turned out that not only were the boxes crammed full of snakes, but also... wait for it... the ventilation system was also full of them!!! The couple, who's names I forget, but it could have been Sue and Colin from Solihull, (apologies if I'm wrong) had noticed 'water' dripping from the vents as they travelled. The illegal trade is all for Chinese medicine apparently.

Talk about 'Snakes on a Plane', which I thought was a pretty ridiculous idea for a movie... but maybe not!

Halfway

I can't believe I'm already half-way through my six month trip around the world. I've been here 3 months and will be leaving at the end of the year!

It was back to work again today. Taught half the lesson to Mark's private students this morning. I don't have any classes at KTV this week for several reasons; first one is that the student numbers have been dropping and secondly Mark's been given two classes every night because all the students want to study with him... he's that good! So I was all ready to relax and enjoy a break when Michael phoned to ask me to do his classes tonight. He's not feeling so good and on top of that, his bike doesn't start when he needs it to. So he's waiting for a friend to pick it up and get it repaired... again!

As I'm always ready to fill in when needed, naturally I said yes, even though I didn't have long to prepare. These are lovely classes of more mature students aged from teenagers to a man in his 40's. However, they are quite low level, which makes it more difficult as I have to be very careful how to phrase my sentences or they look at me bewildered.

Most of the day was really relaxing. After morning class we went to Co-op mart for shopping and watched a film as well before coming home.

I'll miss teaching in the evenings when I leave here. And I'll miss all the lovely students I've got to know, though there are certain ones I'll keep in touch with.

Reprise

Monday evening and Mark's gone to school to teach 2 classes. As I'm not working I'm catching up with emails and adding pics to the last blogs.

Yesterday we walked around the town and stumbled on a Pagoda, which apparently is different from a Temple though I'm not sure why. One of the monks offered to show us inside, which I found interesting, especially as it was built in the year I was born, but didn't impress our Judy who has no experience of religion.





I'm glad we got to Da Lat because it's given me a taste of what I'd like to do next. We didn't take any of the tours on offer because Mark just needed to relax and the weather wasn't at its best anyway. So we got to know the town and realised how we could save money at cheaper hotels.

We got talking to the 'Easy Riders'; men who take travellers on the back of their bikes to parts of the country tourists don't usually get to, visiting the hill tribes that live on the borders of Laos and who use working elephants. A five day tour costs $50 a day; $250 including accommodation and food. I think that's pretty good for an adventure into the unknown with experienced guides and they usually go in a group.

A couple staying at Dreams had just come back from a tour with them and said it was a fantastic experience so I'm very tempted to do that in about a month when the rains should have stopped. They hang out at the Peace Cafe and as soon as they knew we're English teachers, they were asking for help with good sales language... like 'We're the original and the best!' and 'We give you best value' etc. Their trade is being taken by younger riders who charge less because they don't have the same family commitments. These guys are older and wiser and one of them was a young soldier at the end of the war. That's Mark chatting to them about bikes!

Lazy Sunday

These are pics from yesterday; rather dull and drizzly but pleasant enough!

It's Sunday morning and I just had a leisurely breakfast with Mark. He wasn't very well yesterday; either he'd picked up a tummy bug or he's just tired and run down. So he spent most of the day in bed while I explored the town and walked around the lake, about 7 Km. I'd hoped to do a day's tour of the area, but after shopping, found that I hadn't brought enough cash! I have money at home but underestimated the cost of this trip. Silly me!! We're also paying over the odds for this hotel; $35 a night for two rooms, but as far as I'm concerned it's worth it for the peace and comfort and I'll pay for it out of my bank account. So even though I had a minor panic attack about money last night, I tapped on that and slept well.

The great breakfast I ate meant that I didn't need to eat again till late in the afternoon, except for a fantastic fresh strawberry smoothie at the Peace Cafe. This is also a backpackers hotel, which is much cheaper than Dreams although not quite as comfortable.

Did I mention I did some shopping? White short trousers, very trendy for about 3 pounds and a pair of Lacoste sports shoes for 10 pounds, which was probably too much but they threw in a pair of socks! I was looking for a T-shirt, but all they seem to have here is winter wear, warm jumpers and jackets.

My walk around the lake was the most exercise I've had for some time, apart from a couple of short bike rides, and it was great to be able to walk so far without sweating like a racehorse. It rained a bit but I had my waterproof jacket and a huge umbrella from the hotel, so it was very pleasant. Much like a summer's day at home actually.

Later on, I was joined by Judy and Mark, who'd taken some medication and was feeling much better and we ate very well at the Peace Cafe. They do fantastic fruit and chocolate pancakes, which I must try later today. Then I had an early night, reading a very good book by Mitch Albom; 'Five People You Meet in Heaven' that I found on the hotel bookshelves.

So today is another easy day, though I may hire a bike to do some exploring. Now the sun's coming out and so will I.

Dreams

Saturday 22nd Nov.

Awoke to a drizzly overcast morning after a blissfully sweat-free night in the most comfortable bed I've slept in since leaving home. I just went downstairs for breakfast to find the table spread with everything you can imagine; many different kinds of fruit, cold meats and fresh french bread. Two young men were ready to serve us with whatever we fancy, but I'm not too hungry at the moment so just had hot black coffee and yougurt with fresh passion fruit. They serve breakfast till 10am, so I'll probably get scrambled eggs later.

The Dreams Hotel certainly lives up to its reputation for good value. Run by Mme Dung, who speaks perfect English and her family who also have another hotel; Dreams 2 just up the road. They charge from 10 to 20 dollars a night but we have one large and a small double for $35 a night, not cheap by VN standards, but I think very reasonable for what they provide. It's certainly popular with foreigners who've read about it in the Lonely Planet. The rooms even have double glazing, to keep out not only the heat or cold, but also the noise!

The rain has now stopped and today we're going to explore the town and surroundings. Knowing Mark, he'll probably want to rent a motorbike!

More later...

At last in Da Lat

A couple of pics en route.

I think I've landed in heaven!
The journey here by bus was long, over 6 hours, but very comfortable and I even dozed off. Thanks to Judy, who booked with a reputable bus company that doesn't crowd their passengers in like sardines! As we climbed into the hills, the temperature cooled off even without rain, and since arriving I haven't even broken out into a sweat. The temperature is just perfect, even though the natives are dressed for winter! Well, we are a mile high !

We'd booked into the Dreams Hotel, (with the white balcony) simply because I'd read rave reviews about it on the web. It didn't look much from the outside, but once inside we realised how lucky we are as we got the last rooms available. This is not an expensive hotel; more of a travellers hostel, but the best hostel I ever stayed in. The rooms, though small, are beautifully clean with very modern ensuite shower and loo etc.



As soon as we'd checked in, we went out to eat at a restaurant opposite that claims to be recommended in the Lonely Planet. It wasn't cheap but the food was good and we'll find cheaper eating tomorrow. A short walk into town gave us our bearings but we were tired and came back for a siesta. (I don't know what they call it here!) Later, we found the sauna, where we chatted to a couple from Denmark and relaxed in the jacuzzi at the top of the building, overlooking the town.



We decided to go for an evening stroll but as we came downstairs we found ourselves invited to celebrate the proprietor's birthday! In the large kitchen-dining room downstairs a dozen or more people were sitting round tables laden with food and we were soon making the most of it, toasting our hostess Mme Dung with wine and later on, whiskey! Among the travellers staying here are a a couple from Austria, more people from Holland, a young couple from South Wales and a woman from Southport, of all places, with her partner from London.




We also learned that breakfast is included in the price and includes everything a westerner could desire! So that will save on eating out. After Birthday cake we finally got out and found our way to the market and Da Lat's famous lake. Its a very attractive town and the air is fresh and clean. I was seduced into buying a set of Scenic postcards for nearly as much as I'd pay at home, but the seller was such a nice lady I couldn't refuse. I may even send them off to you all.

We're very tired but I just discovered these internet computers, which are free, so when I've posted this I'll be off to bed. So it's Goodnight from me and Mark, not to mention Judy, who's never been anywhere before!

Teachers Day

Today is Teachers Day in Viet Nam. This is a holiday when students show their respect to their teachers with flowers and gifts. Because the classes at KTV are usually at night, for the past two evenings we've been showered with beautiful bouquets, cakes and gifts, such as a large stuffed teddy for Mark! Mr Siu Siu in the centre of the group is the owner of the bakery that makes the most beautiful cakes in Bien Hoa and he's also a student at KTV, so I've seen many examples of his artistry on special occasions. Lovely sponge cake, but too much creamy stuff for my liking! Mr Thom, the school's principle is on the left.

When we went to teach Mark's private students yesterday, they gave him a state-of-the-art mobile phone and treated us to a fantastic meal at a very upmarket restaurant! I was taken next door to an aunt's house to be measured for something. I suspect it's for an Ao Dai, the traditional dress of silk trousers and long tunic, but I didn't like to ask. I was taught never to look a gift horse in the mouth and I like surprises. Just watch this space!



At the Restaurant with Brad and Jojo... that's picture of a quail egg that was almost ready to hatch, which is considered a delicacy here!! Mark has no qualms, unlike me! After that appetizer (!) we were served a huge plate of yellow pancake with seafood and meat, which you help yourself to and wrap in lettuce leaves and rice sheet like a parcel.
Then a large pot of fish and pineapple soup into which is added greens and finally large prawns and sliced liver. It's quite spicy and I know it sounds weird but actually it tastes great as the flavour of chilli (not too hot) and pineapple counteracts the fishiness.





Judy arrived this morning with gifts as well; ties for Mark and a beautiful scarf for me. I've been looking for a scarf ever since I arrived but couldn't find any, so I don't know where she got this one! We have so many flowers we're trying to find someone to give them to.

I was just writing my monthly newsletter for www.who2.co.uk on the theme of respect because of what I've observed here in Viet Nam. The students mostly have respect for their teachers as far as I can see. (There are always exceptions and teenagers are the same everywhere.) There is great respect for the family; there has to be, as mostly everyone lives with their family until they marry and maybe even after that!

I'm always amazed at how the hordes of motorbike riders, cars, buses and trucks exercise respect in their manoeverings, with few traffic lights and no traffic cops, while accidents are probably no worse than at home. As there is no insurance, anyone involved in an accident must report to the police and pay for any damage and if they don't have any money, they go to prison, especially if someone is killed. But there seems to be none of the road rage that's been proliferating in the UK and no shouting or obscene sign language that I've seen so far.
Actually they all give the two finger salute, as you may have noticed in photographs, which is a greeting here and not an insult!
There's also respect for the natural rhythm of life, getting up with the dawn and going to bed before midnight, at least here in Bien Hoa. In this society no-one can afford to miss school or work.
The most amazing thing to me is the respect these people have for America, even after that terrible war! Some of the men learning English even take the name of American presidents; George Bush is popular as well as Bill Clinton. People often call out to us while travelling by motorbike... "Are you American?" I don't know whether their respect is out of fear (of police or whatever,) or because these people are naturally gentle and respectful.

We arranged to have the rest of the weekend free so we can take a trip to Da Lat, a famous beauty spot in the central highlands, thinking we could just go and get train tickets at the last minute. We'd been advised to get an overnight sleeper for the journey north as its quite a long way. (Probably like going from London to Scotland.) However, it turns out that all the sleepers are full, so we'll be setting off at 6.30 in the morning and going by bus instead, which should take about 5 hours.
More news and pictures when we return!

Visit to Lai's family home

On Sunday I visited Lai's home, which is a few kilometers out of Bien Hoa off the main road to Hanoi. We were picked up by her sister and boyfriend, who speak no English, on motorbikes. (What else?) I wished to take a gift to her mother, so on the way we stopped at a huge covered market to buy fruit.








From there the roads became narrower until we were on dirt tracks, finally reaching the family farm. Her parents moved from their home in the North when Lai was five years old, as the living has always been easier here in the South. Their home is a single story comprising five rooms; kitchen, living room, two bedrooms and another room with cupboards but no other furniture. The furnishings are sparse by our standards, with no easy chairs or couches. While the parents' bed has a rather solid honeycomb foam mattress with bed cover, the children sleep on mats with no bedding, except for a firm pillow. I still can't make out the loo arrangements as all I saw was a large tank of water with a tap and a shallow bowl with cloths in it. Not even a hole in the ground! What is one supposed to do???
I was invited to take a nap in the hammock, where I fell fast asleep, dreaming of a flushing toilet upstairs.




They have a nice little smallhoding and farm pigs, chickens and fish in three large ponds, as well as growing corn and other crops. They are far from wealthy but I suppose they do alright by local standards. Her family spoke no English but as always were friendly and hospitable. That's her younger brother Qui, which means precious, breaking open a coconut for the juice.

Cat Tien pics

Some of the many pictures I took on our trip; the ferry across the river, (going in the small boat we had to wear life jackets) big trees, a natural vine swing, local villagers and the bus home, which was less crowded than going. Pictures I failed to take were of leeches on legs, the waterfall, which was merely a stretch of muddy rapids, (I've seen better in Yorkshire) and speeding along the track on the back of an old truck fitted with seats for a view of the jungle, which was probably the best way to see it, with a good breeze to cool us down!

It was quite an adventure , though I doubt the girls would ever want to go again!